Proudly Australian – Landscapes III, FNQ 3

Take any road inland from the main highway through Cairns and you’ll soon be climbing the great Dividing Range towards the Atherton Tableland. Heading north from Cairns, the main road inland is the Kennedy Highway. It leaves the highway at Smithfield and heads for the Barron Gorge, Kuranda and Mareeba. An earlier post about the train journey to Kuranda appeared here.

Instead, heading south from Cairns to Gordonvale, a less busy road, the Gillies Highway, climbs the range, with 38 km of very winding road towards the town of Yungaburra. There is no stopping for photos on the narrow road, as the driver is focussed on navigation and steering! After passing Lake Barrie and the Crater Lakes National Park, Yungaburra is reached in time for lunch! While not strictly ‘landscapes’, the town is quite photogenic.

The highlight of this visit to the hinterland is the nearby Curtain Fig National Park. As seems to be the case in Queensland, there is excellent signage to explain the nature of the park and the unique tree that provides the basis for its name.

Proudly Australian – Landscapes III, FNQ 2

On the main highway north from Cairns, there are regular exits towards the coastal beach communities and resorts. One exit between Cairns and Palm Cove leads to the delightfully named Yorkeys Knob. After passing through the village, at the end of the road is a rather smart marina protected by a breakwater.

However, it was not the expensive pleasure craft that piqued my interest, but something else. Part way between the highway and the coast, we came across the Cattana Wetlands.

A relatively recent project (2009), funded by the State and Local Governments, the whole wetlands have been created on the site of former sand mining operations. The site is well marked with appropriate signage, including recognition of the original land owners.

Great Train Journeys V : Kuranda Scenic Railway

It is time to come closer to home and tell of an Australian rail experience, one which provides joy to millions of visitors to Cairns, major centre of Far North Queensland.

In the 1880s, miners working on the Atherton Tableland inland from the coast were often isolated by flooding rains in this tropical part of Australia. Eight metres (315 inches) of rainfall is not uncommon in a year in these parts. Agreement was eventually reached on a route for a railway. The first sod was turned in 1886, and involved 13 km of relatively level track to the foothils. However, the second section of 24 km had to climb from 5.5m above sea level to 327m, involving some 15 tunnels, 93 curves and dozens of difficult bridges over ravines and waterfalls. Most of this work was done by hand. Many workers lost their lives. The remaining 37.4 km to Mareeba was again relatively easy to complete. The first goods train used the line on 15th June, 1891, and passenger trains followed 10 days later.  At last, the early settlers had a reliable link to the coast. Much more detail of this history can be found here.

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Leaving Cairns terminal station, the train first travels along the coastal plain, passing sugar cane plantations. As the climb begins, houses with views to the ocean are passed.

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Fairly soon, the train is entering a cutting and there is just time to snap the view looking back towards Cairns. Then come the bridges and tunnels.

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At the best vantage points, such as near the Barron Falls, the train stops and passengers are able to get off the train to take photos of the spectacular scenery. As luck would have it, this had been a fairly dry year, so the waterfalls were not at their spectacular best.

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Eventually, Kuranda Station, itself featuring tropical plantings, is reached. There are two trains each way, each day. Here, both sit in the station awaiting the return journey. 

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Kuranda is known as The Village in the Rainforest. Surrounded by World Heritage Rainforest, it has been home to the Djabugay Aboriginal people for more than 10,000 years. This vibrant indigenous culture continues to thrive today. Tourists come to experience some of this culture, as well as markets and other attractions. It can be reached by a Skyrail which traverses over the treetops from the coastal plain, or by the famous Kuranda Scenic Railway. As a train enthusiast, it is the train journey that I have taken – several times over the years.

The photos used in this post are all from the pre-digital age! Scanned from prints, with a few enhancements, I hope they give a good impression of this train journey.

Further reading: Kuranda Scenic Railway; Kuranda Village ; Kuranda Skyrail